A simple conversion, a big improvement – modifying the TD side curtain storage
Adding a hinged top to the TD storage compartment is a big improvement and simple process, Following are two options.

Materials: for modifying existing lid
2- 1½” X 3″ brass or chrome plated hinges, reuse existing lid screws and finish washers.
Material costs @ $5.00.

Process: using existing lid: With a pencil lightly trace the outline where the aft edge of the lid contacts the Tub.  Remove the existing lid by removing the two screws and finish washers holding it in place, there may also be a few screws or nails holding the back edge up against the tub rail.  Remove the whole lid by lifting and sliding forward.  Measure ¾” to the outside of each snap on the lid and with a square, draw a perpendicular line from the front edge to the aft pencil line marking the tub.

At the table saw set the fence to plunge cut the aft pencil line between the two 90 degree lines marked outside the snaps.  With a fine kerf saw cut the two short lines measured outside of the snaps back to the hinge kerf.

On your work table align the front edges of the two pieces and center the new lid and install the hinges.  You’ll have a ⅛” gap from the saw kerf on the hinge section, use the two hinges @ ½” inside the two end cuts.  You can also cut a piano hinge for a full length hinge to cover the saw kerf.  Fit the new lid in position and replace the two screws on the lid, the closure strap snaps and two or three 1 ¼” drywall screws in the aft section of the lid into the tub rim.

If replacing the lid you’ll need –
12″ X 48″ matching upholstery material if not using your original.
¼” plywood 5″ wide x 44″ long (original is ¼” thick, I used ½” oak and modified where necessary for fit), 2 – 1 ½” x 3″ brass hinges, 3M spray adhesive Cost @ $25.00

Remove existing lid, use as pattern and trace on the measured plywood and cut out the new profile but leave an extra ½” on the front edge when ripping to width.  Mark the snap points and slide the lid into position it should fit well but be a bit deeper from front to back by a ½”.  Once the back edge and sides fit properly mark the aft section with a pencil where it contacts the tub rim.  Remove the lid and mark the lid ¾” to the outside of each snap position, using a square mark two pencil lines from the front edge to the aft tub pencil line.  Plunge cut the long aft line on the table saw and the two short lines to create the moveable lid.  At the bench install the two hinges.  Using original lid as template mark the front edge of new lid and rip the front edge to depth of original lid.  If using ¼ ply rip a ¼” x ¾” X length of moveable lid and glue and staple on underside as a stop for the front panel to fit against when closed.  This also adds strength to the lid.  You’ll also note the aft end of the original had a ¼” strip on top of the lid where the lid meets the tub surround.  So add a piece to the aft edge to duplicate.  Wrap the entire piece with new material using 3M spray adhesive or reuse your original upholstery from old lid.  This material will hide your hinges; you can cut the material along the two side kerf openings with a razor blade.  Do not cut the long kerf where hinges are the material will act like a hinge and keep kerf covered for a clean appearance.  Install and attach two screws and finish washers to the vertical supports, the two snap buttons for keeping the lid and front panel in place when closed and three 1 ¼” drywall screws to the edge under the tub rail.

You may want to reline the compartment with Black Felt I would recommend stripping all old material with a razor blade, wire brush the metal and spray with Rustoleum Rust converter then top coat with black enamel Paint.  Spray adhesive is used to install the mid to heavy weight black felt.  A yard of felt will do the trick.  This adds about $25.00 to the cost.

— Graham Gill

TD’s as many know are wonderful little British cars, well-built yet challenging on some design matters.  Two mains for the electrical system that will allow a wiring harness melt down before a fuse will blow.  Single cylinder brake master cylinders, the most confounded oiling system for a four banger, suicide doors that really aren’t meant to be kept closed at speed on bumpy roads… and finally a stowage compartment for the four side curtains that only Houdini can make things fit properly.

These are things you come to love and learn to live with until Dick Suffredini suggests having a hinged lid installed to ease the storage of the side curtains by dropping them into their cleverly designed home.  Why didn’t the guys at MG figure this one out, they could have sold twice as many cars and still be in business today with this simple upgrade.  So, out came the two screws on the top of the lid, about three nails nailed though the underside of the lid holding the back edge of the lid up to the wood wrapping the back of the tub and the ¼ “ plywood lid slid right out.  Looking at the interior of the storage area I knew that needed attention also so all the old felt was scraped out, the interior wire brushed, rust converter Rustoleum was applied and a satin black enamel was applied as a final coat for additional protection.  The decision was made to not line the bottom of the compartment but leave it well painted as the felt will simply retain moisture and continue to rot the bottom out.  1 yard of heavy black felt from the fabric shop and a can of 3M spray adhesive and the interior of the compartment was looking brand new in short order.

Back to the lid, at the bench was a 66 year old well-rotted piece of ¼” plywood wrapped in Rexine fabric that matched the rest of this crusty old interior so I forged ahead thinking we’ll make this one hinged and see how it works.  That didn’t last long as the piece began to disintegrate on the table saw.

Into the wood loft for some new lumber, a 5 1/2” wide X 45” long by ½“ oak ply would do nicely.  Using what was left of the original lid I traced the overall profile but left @3/4“ of additional depth along the front edge.  Back to the table saw to cut the overall profile.  Measuring a ½” to the outside of the snap buttons the template was marked at 90 degrees from front edge back 3 ½” +/- for the two side cuts, a line was drawn parallel to the back edge between these two marks to rip the hinge kerf.  The hinge kerf lands @ 1/8” in front of the vertical edge of the tub surround which allows the hinged lid to open fully vertical.  A plunge cut along the back kerf on the table saw from mark to mark and a trip to the band saw to cut the two side kerfs.  This could be done with a jig saw or on a table saw but I wanted a narrow kerf on the sides.

I lined up the two pieces and matched the narrow kerf on the sides and replicated the kerf on the back.  I like close tolerances, next I Installed two 3” brass hinges with 3/8” screws these were @ ¾” in from each edge of the opening.  Then I marked the depth (front to back) the with the originals and ripped the ½” +/- extra off the front edge and dry fit the piece, it fit very well.  Back to the table saw where a ¼ X 3/8” rabbit was cut along the front edge to create a stop for the front panel to nest inside the side frame and the lid when closed.  I also cut the two ends of the top to a thickness of @ ¼ “ where the panel sits on the wheel arches.  Everything lined up and I installed the two lid screws into the two side supports and used three 1¼ “ black sheet rock screws through the back edge underside into the tub surround.  Once happy with the positioning and function of the lid, the lid was removed for upholstery.

I had been lucky to almost match the interior Rexine with an outdoor fabric.  Using 3M spray adhesive I completely wrapped the new lid including hinges with material.  I installed two oak cleats at the fixed side edges of the lid to allow the lid to be supported when closed.  I installed new straps and snaps and the hinged lid delivered ease of loading those side curtains.

The Craven-Hall outing was February 20th and was when Dick made the suggestion for the folding lid.  The next weekend I moved forward on the project and had it completed in about two long days in anticipation of taking it to the anniversary luncheon .  So Dick’s husband Tom Rippert asks me about the project at the luncheon, he had seen some pictures I sent and I tell him it worked out really well.  Tom then tells me of a more novel storage approach of removing the screws from the lid.  Putting two short posts in the screw locations, (screws with the heads cut off) and sliding the whole lid up and out to open the storage cavity.  When in place the front cover straps snap down on the lid and hold the darn thing in place against the two screw studs.  To make matters even better is to approach this from the rear…thanks again Tom, pull the staples that hold the top on the tub and replace them with snaps he suggests so one can easily lift not only the lid of the compartment out but do it from the rear of the car by unsnapping the top and folding it forward.  Ah, yet another new project for this coming weekend.  So the solutions to storing four side curtains in their storage compartment seem to be endless although I have yet to find one on line.  Can’t wait for the tech session to hear what else I could have done to this fine LBC after I thought I had done it all.

— Graham Gill